Wednesday 25 June 2014

A walk in the park?

Day 5, Chatillon to Issonge, 20 km (plus 2 km being lost and 2 km in search of dinner.)
Day 6, Rest day (but 6km to get to chemist, shop etc)
Day 7, Issogne to Pont St Martin, 13 km
Day 8, Pont St Martin to Ivrea, 22 (excruciating) km
Days 9, 10 & 11, Rest days (short walks to get gelati and pizza)
Day 12, Ivrea to Piverone, 16 km
Day 13, Piverone to Santhia, 22 km
Day 14, Santhia to Vercelli, 28 km (Nick- 7.5 hrs by foot, Liz-11 mins by train)

Walk 1008 kms, they said. It would be easy, they said.  Actually, they didn't. I did. And I was wrong.

By Day 5 my sandal and sock combination seemed to have done me in (I think it was in retaliation for all the mean comments on facebook) with new blisters arising in, oh, about a dozen places. This was exacerbated by an additional 1.5 hours we spent wandering around after walking PAST a signpost cannily hidden behind an olive tree. I can't tell you how I cursed when we finally found it. 

Day 6 we rested, both to give my feet a break, and to allow some space to reflect on the passing of Nick's Granny and to make phone calls, send emails, make some toasts etc. 

We set off on Day 7 (me back in boots) in light misty rain, which soon brightened into clear blue sky as we walked further down the valley. We passed Roman era terraced vineyards, still in use, and an old Roman road where the wheelcarts of generations of travellers had carved permanent grooves into the rock. That night our hotel overlooked an amazing 2000+ year old Roman bridge.
(Terraced vineyards)

(Modern day centurion. Note wheel tracks in stone leading up the arch. Via Roma, the Donnas)

(The view from our hotel of the roman bridge, or 'Ponte Romano')

There ended the sight seeing, as by Day 8 I couldn't comprehend any of the amazing scenery we were passing through but was totally absorbed by the excruciating pain radiating from my feet. We got through 22km. The last eight km being particularly hysterical with me in tears and close to waving down cars for a lift and Nick not knowing how to help me.  A friendly dog walker gave us a short-cut tip and we arrived in Ivrea. Me with broken feet. Nick, still feeling perky.

So, what's the deal with your feet Liz, you may ask? Well, dear reader, as 'Dr.' Anna suggested via a skype session that night, and the pharmacist confirmed in the morning with a step back and sharp intake of breathe, I do indeed have the 'funghi.' That's right, I have tinea. What. A. Fuckup. 
(Fancy Bidet Footbath)

Days 9, 10 and 11 were therefore self-imposed rest days as we waited for my feet to start healing from both the tinea AND the friction blisters. Anna made a suprise, and greatly appreciated, sortie across the Swiss-Italian border bringing extra socks, tape, foot cream, chocolate, a change of clothes and other great stuff. She also kept us company for two days and saved us from killing each other from boredom. (Anna- we are forever grateful for your generosity!) Her visit also highlighted how far we'd come: far enough for her to drive to us in just over two hours. It took us seven days to walk. 

In some ways this makes me feel sick and like a bit of an idiot. But it's also the whole point really, to consider and experience what it's like to journey a long distance by foot. Lately i've thought about people, such as refugees, who have to walk long distances to save their lives. From the comfort of our middle class backgrounds Nick and I can make a choice about this novel form of travelling, but for others walking is often the only way out of desperate situations.  It just makes you think. And be thankful.

But still, I can't be thankful for the tinea. The three days of rest sorted my feet out somewhat. Day 12 started with a walk in the humid rain through woods and open fields. But 8 km in, my pinkie toe starts to burn and then I'm sitting on a wet log in the middle of a paddock changing back to sandles and socks. 

(Honestly- WTF are we doing?)

Day 13 the mega sandle blisters start again and it's like groundhog day, but with no Bill Murray, so really what's the point? On this day however some nice things happened: we still walked 22 km; I didn't cry at all (except in the morning when I couldn't put my boots on but I don't think that counts); the walk was flat and beautiful through vineyards, beside a lake, then leading into corn fields; friendly farmers on tractors waved to us; and I also saw kiwi fruit trees/vines for the first time! So I'm thankful for the small things.
(Lake Viverone)

But really, this foot rubbish is getting to be a joke, so we made the executive decision for me to skip stages and properly rest until my feet are sorted. And also see a dr about a possible infected pinkie toe nail and get some different shoes if need be. This trip we are spending all our money on sports gear and medical supplies instead of beer. Something is really wrong.

So this morning, Day 14, I bid farewell to Nick from a small cafe in the town square. He walked the 28 km to Vercelli (which is an amazing effort!), while I took the train.  It took him about 7.5 hours. The train took 11 minutes and cost me €2.70. 

We have hit the Po river valley so for the next week it is just flat rice plains.  I'm not particularly sad to miss this mosquito-infested part of the walk but in some ways it's hard for me admit I need to stop and take a break. It will also be hard and tedious for Nick as he wanders this 'waiting for godot'-esque bland landscape by himself for hours. 

So for the next while it will be Nick walking, with me acting as support crew and training/bussing from town to town to meet him. I wonder who will have more fun?....
(According to Nick, today's scenery included a tree and a telephone exchange building)


1 comment:

  1. Hi Liz
    Wow - you knew that this would be tough and challenging, but perhaps not as quickly and with so much grief and pain! I guess the good thing is that you chose to have this life changing experience in beautiful and interesting surroundings... helps to balance out the difficulties.
    Anyway, very impressed with your perserverance - I would have beenonthat train way earlier! Good on you, and keep up the beautiful writing and reflections. Inspirational. I am sure Nicks grandma would think the same and be so proud of you both!
    Zoe

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